Saw this at HL and thought I'd pass it
along...credit it to mudcrazee.
I just got back from the dealership, and the service department gave me a copy of this, so I am posting it to help everyone out. It deals with the fan, overheat issues and other problems I have seen people post about.

K-TECH NEWS Vol #18 Issue 1 2005
KVF750 Connector Corrosion Creates Electrical Havoc

Do you have a KVF750 exhibiting strange electrical problems? There have been reports of some very strange electrical symptoms that can be difficult to diagnose.
Typical symptoms are listed below in the order from most common to the least common:

1. Fan does not activate and the engine overheats
2. Meter stays on and the battery goes dead
3. Fuse keeps blowing
4. Engine stalls when 4wd is engaged and does not restart, but it restarts in 2wd.
5. Engine starts without ignition key (when just green button is pressed).
6. Check belt light is flashing.

The cause for these symptoms can be often traced to corrosion forming inside one of the two white plastic 1"x1-1/4"x3/8" joint (BUS) connectors that are taped to the main wiring harness. There is one under the front fender between the front shock towers and another one under the rear fender near the fuel tank.
So far the problem has ocurred only on the rear connector. More specifically, the rear connector/harness is attached to the tube frame just to the right side of igniter/control unit area. If you pry open the cap of the connector, you may find greenish corrosion (electrolysis) formed inside between the bare metal contacts. The electrolysis occurs within the connector because there are positive and negative wire terminals joined together without any barrier to seperate them. On the rear connector the white wires are always on (+), the brown wires are ignition on (+) and the black/yellow wires are ground (-).
If your customers ride in deep water or somehow cause water intrusion into this connector, a special prevention is required because the problem could repeat. After cleaning up the corrosion or the main harness is replaced (because the connector itself is not available seperate), some dialectric grease should be applied inside the connecter and it should be well sealed to prevent further moisture intrusion. The ultimate repair is to remove all of the black/yellow ground wires, solder them together and seal them seperately from the connector.

This is the first I've heard about this...
I'll check with my Kawi dealer and see if he
got one.

one of those conncetors is the reason my bike stayed in the shop for over 2 weeks. my belt light kept coming on and the engine would not rev over 3,000 rpm's. thanks for sharing the letter trapper, i know several other members who have had these types of electrical problems.
this is a great example of the "first year bugs". hopefully next years model will not have these problems and will have efi.

Great info & just in time for an upcoming ATVenture vacation starting next weekend in the high Rockies of Colorado.
I'll check these connectors on the 4th, just to be on the safe side.

welcome to the forum BF750b2

I feel anyones pain that's had this particular problem, because it's so hard to pin point it. Initially, I tryed to diagnose myself for about a week, finally gave up and took it to the dealer praying for mercy. Symtoms I had were all at once...Turn off ignition and no dice...instrument cluster would stay on, but with a little persuasion, it would go off. Finally got it to stay off until I came downstairs the next morning to find the damn thing on and turning over hours. After I saw that, just had to disconnect the battery and call dealer.

After 3 days of waiting in a service bay for the machine to light up with the key turned off in the ignition, they called me to tell me they believed what I was telling them when I took it in.

Points on the wiring where connections were made exhibited heavy green corrosion. They told me about what they had to do and what they did to fix it. Cleaned it out, packed it with dichromatic grease, re-wrapped the connection and only charged me 100 bucks to deal with it due to the fact that the tech stated he had never seen the problem before so consider it a learning curve on his dollar. Thought that was pretty cool of him to do that, because the machine just went out of 6 month warranty and they were about to call me to request ordering a brand new wiring harness, complete.

I thought to myself, wiring harness, no biggie, probably 250-300 bucks max???Yeah right, that guy told me the whole harness installed would be around $1400.00. I about choked!! Next machine will definately have KAWI ext warranty.

Anyhow, it's back in the garage after riding quite a bit yesterday just making sure everything was operating ok. Looks like now it seems to have a bit more power too. I think all that corrosion was causing a gradual process of degradation with how the machine electronically operates. I'll tell you, these machines are just getting more and more complicated, almost like a new car fully computerized.

I will say though that the one computer device that is a must for any of these machines is a Dyna CDI. Stock Ignition is horrible.

Conclusions: Ended up running up about 15 hours total over what was on the bike originally. I hate that, but oh well, I bought it for fun and that's exactly what the BF750 is. All you have to do is get on the throttle and there is not much, if anything out there that can touch it speedwise. Utilitywise, it's a tank and even with stock tires, I can ride anywhere I need to go around my farm.


2005 Green BF750 -
Dynatek CDI, K&N Air Filter

Jon, welcome to posters. so when you got the wiring done you think it had more power??

does this problem happen with praries at all? my friends 360 is starting to act really weird, displaying some of the symptoms listed here.

Mudcon,

The way it ws acting right up until all the major issues was a wierd hesitancy when engaging the throttle about 1/4 way through the power curve. Like a little raspy or something.

Sounds crazy, but if you've ever heard an older model 911, it sounds kinda rough when you barely get on it, but when your doing 80+ the car feels at home and sounds great.

That's what it felt like. Go slow, and it dragged ass. Speed up and it felt ok again. Now after the operation, the bike rides very smooth through the entire powerband and that's what I prefer. Good transition all around.

You know, since these bikes are all computerized now, having a bum connection could be a significant loss of power or eventual failure. Go figure.

By the way, went to your site the other day. Pretty nice! Love the videos....

A couple I did ran alot smoother after the surgery aswell.

I think the BF650 may have the connectors to, not to sure about the praries. They are not hard to find if you run your hand along the main wire harness attached to the frame you can feel a small square box wrapped in electric tape.

does anyone know anything about kvf700 team green limited , good or bad

very good machine. you will love it. what kind of riding do you do?

Ihad a problem with my BF750 too, it was back firing at high rpm. I bought a manual/cdr. and it said to check rectifier. I checked like they said and it didn'check right. Well after $130.00 it was not the problem. I checked the stator and that did'ntcheck right either. So I gave up and took it to the dealer.to make along story short it was the stator and some shorted wires. Water got into the stator conector and opened the stator. It finally got fixed and cost about $800.00 for stator repair and electrical reair plus oil change. WATCH OUT FOR WATER IN THAT CONECTOR!!!!!